Sardinia - A Local's Guide - Blogger On Pole

“I’m going to Sardinia – got any recommendations?” is one of the questions I get asked the most from both friends and followers – funnily enough, even more than: “What do your parents think about your pole dancing?” (Short answer: they love it). So I thought it was about time to collate all my Sardinia recommendations in one place through this blog post, ’cause your girl doesn’t gate-keep.

Disclaimer

When I say “the local’s guide,” bear in mind that this refers to the places I’m local to, aka North Eastern Sardinia, where I was born and where I spent the first 18 years of my life. I was lucky enough to grow up in one of the most beautiful corners of the world, around the place where most people go on holiday when they come to Sardinia. So while I have visited other areas around the island, my tips do revolve more around the North – which brings me to the next bit of the disclaimer.

Sardinia is BIG. It’s not hugely populated, but if, say, you fly to Cagliari, you can’t expect me to come meet you if I’m staying in Olbia. It’d be like asking someone from Bristol to come see you in London for the day – in an area which is connected WAY WORSE than a lot of places (but more on that later).

Last disclaimer: I see this very much as a rolling blog post, which I will keep updating as I do new things. So if you have more questions or advice *after* reading, hit me up 🙂

About Sardinia

Sardinia is the second-largest island in the Mediterranean Sea (after Sicily and before Cyprus).

It’s a very ancient land which has been inhabited and invaded by many different populations. Hosting the Nuragic civilisation between the 18th century BC to the 2nd century AD, known for the castle-like fortresses called Nuraghi, Sardinia then went through various dominations because of its strategic position for commerce. From the Phoenicians to the Romans, from the Carthagens to the Vandals, all the way through Spanish domination, Sardinian history is full of different cultures that have created a varied, specific kind of language: Sardinian. Sardinian is recognised as a language by Italian law, making Sardinia an “autonomous region” with some governance freedoms usually attributed to bilingual regions – but don’t worry: you won’t need to learn Sardinian to communicate. While before the advent of TV unified Italy under the same language people didn’t always speak Italian, now everyone (apart from maybe a few centenarians) speak Italian, and a lot of people speak English due to the huge amount of tourists that visit.

This is largely because in the early 1960s, the Aga Khan Prince fell in love with what’s now known as Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast), the bit of Sardinia where I’m from. He wanted to turn it into an Italian Saint Tropez, making it a popular tourist destination by building a series of touristic villages and creating a specific airline to connect Sardinia with mainline Italy and the world. That airline, initially called Alisarda, then Meridiana, then Air Italy, is the airline my parents worked for when they met and throughout my childhood and teens. Which brings me to the next bit: transport to and from the island.

Getting to Sardinia

You can get to Sardinia either by plane or by boat / ferry. Both of these are incredibly expensive, particularly if you’re not Sardinian, so it’s worth planning ahead.

Air Italy shut down in 2020 just before the Covid lockdowns, luckily just before my dad was about to retire, but costing thousands of jobs to people around the island and mainland Italy. As a result, we don’t have a “regional” airline anymore, and connections to Sardinia are left to the free market.

Although there is a set of laws meant to make flights connecting Sardinia with the mainland cheaper for residents, I don’t always qualify for these as I am now a UK resident. So flights, particularly when I need to catch a connection at awkward times from Rome or Milan off-season, can be very expensive.

The good news is that if you book in advance, a lot of low cost airlines fly to Sardinia direct from European capitals such as London, Paris, Amsterdam, Berlin etc. – and obviously from mainland Italy. The main Sardinian airports are Olbia, Cagliari and Alghero, served by most airlines, but remember: Sardinia is BIG. So unless you rent a car or are prepared to spend hours on our dispersive public transport, you’ll probably have to stay in just one area.

Boats and ferries, mainly ran by companies such as Tirrenia or Moby, are even more expensive than planes, but they are helpful for people doing an Italy-wide trip and driving around. Alternatively, Olbia and other Sardinian cities are also a stop for many cruises, so you may get to see a little in one day if you book one that stops here.

Getting around Sardinia

The main way to get around Sardinia is, sadly, still by car. Our snakelike country roads are very scenic and were used as a filming location for Roger Moore’s Bond films. If you’re not coming with your own car, you can rent one – they get expensive in the summer, and you will need a credit (instead of debit or prepaid) card for deposits. There are car rentals in most towns, often near airports, but it’s wise to book in advance to get an idea of costs.

Precisely because Sardinian nature is so scenic, the transport system hasn’t exactly caught up with demand or (rightly) hasn’t disrupted the view… so trains are a nightmare.

Trains connecting the North and South of Sardinia last a lifetime and aren’t frequent. I recently had to catch one connecting Cagliari with Olbia (one of the two connecting ones that ran on that day) and it took me a whopping four hours and a half – longer than London to Amsterdam via train, for a much shorter distance!

Trains, which are operated by the not-always-reliable Trenitalia, are small but they have plenty of seating options and they are air-conditioned. One of their perks is that they stop by a lot of tiny villages, so if you’re a fan of rural, inner Sardinia, or want to discover it and have a few days, this is the option for you. Olbia-Cagliari journeys are also pretty cheap, costing less than €20. The Trainline app operates in Italy too, so if you’re not a fan of ticket machines at stations you can go with that. Just please remember to validate your ticket at the station, with the tiny green and white machines, to avoid getting a fine.

Northern Sardinian cities are also connected by train, and by a set of buses by the main transport company, ARST. These buses tend to connect Olbia and Alghero (two main airport towns) as well as nearby villages.

Cities and villages

So you got to Sardinia. Where should you stay / go? Here are a few suggestions.

Olbia

I may be biased, but I always tell people to go to Olbia when they go to Sardinia. Why? Because it’s ideally located to be within a few minutes’ or hours’ drive from some of Sardinia’s most stunning places, like Tavolara Island, Cala Luna, Porto Rotondo etc. (more about all of these later).

I’m often asked for recommendations for restaurants and bars when people come to Olbia. When I’m home, we tend to eat out once a week because we prefer my mum’s cuisine and restaurants are expensive, but there are some cute places I can recommend.

Caffetteria e Pasticceria Tiramisù in Viale Aldo Moro is one of my favourite patisseries for breakfast and cake
Delizie di Sicilia in Mare e Rocce is great for some yummy Sicilian style pastries (they only open in the summer)
I love Disigios for local wine, charcuterie boards and picturesque side streets in Olbia’s main centre
My Bar in the main centre makes the best version of one of my fave local delicacies: panino a polpi, aka octopus sandwich
In Vino Veritas is fab for aperitivo and people watching, also by the main centre
La Smeralda Gelateria in Corso Umberto was voted one of Italy’s best gelato parlours, and has flavours that are to die for
Sa Joga by Lo Squalo beach is my go-to for gorgeous sunsets and my favourite fresh fried calamari
Young people go to Bar Gregorio for drinks and people watching in the main centre, although that has now stopped being one of my regular haunts (I’m old)
Rock & Beach bar in Mare Rocce is an adorable beachside kiosk with wild all-night live music and parties every Thursday, sometimes going on until the end of the tourist season if the weather allows it.

Olbia’s surroundings

Near Olbia is Golfo Aranci, a Fishermen’s village you can also reach by train via Olbia’s main train station. Some of my and my friends’ favourite restaurants there include:

L’Ostrica Ubriaca and its terrace for aperitivo
The beachside La Spigola for fine dining
Lo Scorfano Allegro for even finer beachside dining
Kelos Beach, a yummy Neapolitan style pizza place (only open in the summer, but they have an Olbia branch)
Paradice Cream Gelateria, owned by my friend Gabriele. Their Paradice flavour, with pistachio and white chocolate cream, is addictive – and some of their flavours are vegan.

While we’re at it, it’s worth specifying that there isn’t a whole lot out there for vegans in town, so check on Happy Cow to make sure there is something out there for you if you don’t eat meat or dairy. Another app worth downloading is The Fork, where you can book restaurants with a discount.

From Olbia and Golfo Aranci you can drive to Porto Cervo and Porto Rotondo, two gorgeous villages that have made Costa Smeralda’s history as party and nightlife spots.

I would say Porto Cervo can be likened to Cannes in terms of prices and appearance, but although it’s pretty, it’s more artificial than most places you’ll see in Sardinia. It’s where oligarchs go on holiday, and it causes many a scandal when inevitably someone is charged €60 for two coffees and a water, so you may just wanna look around if you don’t wanna take out a loan.

Porto Rotondo is a lot more bohemian and picturesque, with its cobblestones, irregular side streets, independent shops and markets. Definitely my favourite between the two!

You may have noticed I’m not sharing eating recommendations for either village – that’s because they’re way out of my price range, and if I of my friends haven’t tried a place I don’t recommend it.

Not too far from Porto Cervo is the village of San Pantaleo, an absolute must-visit. It’s so tiny that the main action – independent shops, restaurants and bars – happens on the main square, where you can take your pick about where to eat. It’s one of my favourite places for an evening stroll.

A lot of tourists also stay in San Teodoro, a few minutes’ drive from Olbia’s main airport and the home of gorgeous beaches like La Cinta and of famous night clubs like La Luna and Ambra. I haven’t gone to those in over ten years cause I hate clubbing, but they are stunning, open-air, beachside clubs known for house music.

<img loading= — Spiaggia La Cinta – San Teodoro

If that’s your vibe, they’re worth a visit – and I’ve met a lot of Brits who go to San Teodoro specifically for Ambra Night. If, however, you’re a nonna like me and beaching and eating is more your style, stop by the gorgeous La Cinta – kilometers of white sands and crystal clear waters – and eat incredible seafood at Da Nardino (it’s so famous someone in Puglia recently mentioned it to me so it’s a must-visit).

Tempio

With its granite-heavy city centre and its picturesque streets, Tempio is a little gem within an hour or so’s drive from Olbia.

It was near here that one of Italy’s most loved songwriters, Fabrizio De Andrè, decided to move – and nearby, his former house, L’Agnata, is a must-visit agriturismo and boutique hotel where my family and I had an amazing time.

Alghero

Another main airport town, Alghero is the most ‘international’ of Sardinian cities, having retained a dialect and a look dating back to the Catalan domination. I haven’t eaten here in ages so I don’t feel like recommending restaurants, but Catalan style lobster is a traditional dish here.

Alghero has a city beach and is near Isola Rossa, a beautiful area full of red rocks and crystal clear waters. One of the most instagrammed beaches you may have seen is nearby, La Pelosa in Stintino, where a Nuraghe towers over crystal clear waters.

Not too far from Alghero is Bosa, a picturesque town near the lunar landscape style rocks of Cane Malu.

Cagliari

Cagliari is Sardinia’s capital, a university city at the very South of the Island. With gorgeous architecture and uphill central street, Cagliari also has a kilometers-long city beach full of kiosks and bars, Il Poetto. I haven’t eaten here often, but can vouch for the fregola at Trattoria Lillicu as I ate it recently and was blown away.

The nearby coastal town of Calasetta is very picturesque qnd within driving distance, and so is the breath-taking Villasimius area, full of resorts, and Sant’Antioco island, reachable by ferries and known for the Coaquaddus and Cala Grotta beaches.

Nuoro

Before you go there, bear in mind that Nuoro IS NOT a beachside city – it’s in inner Sardinia, near our highest mountains. It is, however, a stop some people enjoy making due to its Ethnographic Museum, full of local costumes and anecdotes about Sardinian history, as well as the Grazia Deledda museum. It’s a cultural hotspot rather than a beachside stay.

Beaches

Most people who go to Sardinia are mainly interested in the beach life. Now, as I have already mentioned, you will need a car to get around, but it’s 100% worth it.

Olbia city beaches

Olbia has a lot of city beaches that can even be reached by bus. Pittulongu, Lo Squalo, Il Pellicano, Mare Rocce and Bados on the Olbia side, and Porto Istana and Le Saline on the San Teodoro side, are all gorgeous and a cheaper alternative in case you don’t wanna rent a car. I’ve already mentioned La Cinta in San Teodoro – for that you may need a few more buses, but it’s still doable.

Costa Smeralda beaches

Disclaimer: these beaches are breath-taking, but they’re packed during high season, so you’ve been warned. Still, La Spiaggia Del Principe, La Celvia, Il Pevero, Liscia Ruja are gorgeous and worth a stop if you can bear the crowds.

Away from Costa Smeralda

Towards more central Sardinia but also on the East Coast, you can find Posada, know for its long beaches, its uphill alleys and the Castello della Fava, visible from the coast. Nearby is also Bèrchida (not to be confused with the town of Berchidda) about 30-40 minutes by car from Olbia. It’s a long and beautiful beach with clear waters and white sand.

Further North, near Aglientu, is Rena Majori, the area where the latest Little Mermaid live action was shot. The main beach is a strip of white, incredibly fine sand that slips into an enchanting coloured sea, bordered by dark rocks and light pink granite. Also near here is the gorgeous Valle Dell’Erica beach, near a famous resort and spa of the same name.

Towards the South, in the Costa Verde, is Piscinas beach by the town of Arbus. Known as the Sardinian desert, it has dunes of golden sand reaching even 60m. Here, the scenery lent itself as a background to many a Spaghetti Western movie.

Closer to Cagliari, near the town of Cabras, is the gorgeous Mari Ermi beach, a long beach with clear waters and pebbles of white sand.

Also near Cagliari is the Chia area, famous for kitesurfing and surfing, dunes and pink flamingoes.

Excursions

Starting up North, the La Maddalena archipelago, centred around a quaint little island within a ferry ride from Palau or Santa Teresa di Gallura, is a must-visit. A former US military base, La Maddalena is now a bustling tourist location.

Sardinia is of course just below the French island of Corsica, which can be reached by ferry from Santa Teresa di Gallura. You can choose to hop to another country and explore the towns of Ajaccio and Bonifacio by car, or you can do an all-day excursion with the Consorzio delle Bocche to visit the Corsica islands of Lavezzi and Isola Piana. These two stunning French natural parks close to Sardinian water are beyond what words can describe: as they’re no-fishing zones, fish are not afraid of you and will swim with you; the waters are clear; the Mediterranean scrub smells better than the best perfume; and the scenery made of rocks and white sand is breath-taking. Usually small boat excursions – unlike the bigger boat excursions – offer lunch, drinks and aperitivo, so this is an ideal day out.

Another iconic national park can be found in the island of L’Asinara, a national park in a deserted island largely inhabited by donkeys. L’Asinara was a former plague isolation centre and then a penal colony which has now been turned into a stunning marine park. It’s a short boat ride from Stintino or Porto Torres.

The sleeping dragon visible everywhere from Olbia is Tavolara island, one of the world’s smallest kingdoms. A boat ride away from the town of Porto San Paolo, another cute village near Olbia, it’s ideal for beaching, hiking and dining at the La Corona restaurant.

You can even visit the cemetery where previous kings are buried, right on the beach. If you’re lucky, the local authorities may be able to take you there on a free sunset boat ride like they did last summer – keep an eye on their IG for info!

One of the must-do excursions in Sardinia is near the coast of Baunei, where you can hike through the Codula di Luna to reach one of the most beautiful beaches on the island, Cala Luna. Featuring a series of caves deep inside rocky cliffs, sea of a thousand different shades, reefs and a small lake, Cala Luna is peak Sardinia. Don’t fret if you’re not a hiker though: Cala Luna, and the equally if not more stunning Cala Mariolu with its white pebble stones and Cala Goloritzè with its blue waters, can be reached with all-day boat trips from Cala Gonone or Siniscola.

Not far from Oristano, the city of Tharros preserves the remains of public and private buildings dating from the Punic age to the Byzantine period – all facing the gorgeous Tyrrenian sea. I first visited this as a child in primary school, but since then the excavations have unearthed even more buildings so it’s a really exciting spot to visit.

Sleeping

Sardinia has plenty of hotel and Airbnb options, going from the modest to the all-out luxury.

Up until a while ago, Italy had a tradition of “seconde case” aka second homes by the beach or the countryside. This means that a lot of these houses are now rented to tourists, either via Airbnb or via “a guy who knows a guy.” So Airbnb is a very safe bet for cute local accommodation.

I haven’t really “stayed over” in Sardinia because I stay at my parents’, but there are some notable luxury resorts you will have heard about either through my stories (if they also had events) or in luxury mags and/or celeb stories.

Cala di Volpe is one of the most expensive, luxurious and high-profile hotels in Porto Cervo, North Sardinia. Every summer they host major celebrities for private concerts – if I remember correctly, even Beyoncè and Jay Z stopped by. In the same area you’ll find Hotel Pevero, and a series of other incredible hotels out of most people’s price range.

Deeper in the country side, the gorgeous boutique hotel Gallicantu, which you may have seen from my stories, is nothing short of stunning. Located in a “stazzo,” an abandoned allotment near the picturesque village of Luogosanto, Gallicantu is a gem of Sardinian architecture and charm. I went there for their Thursday jazz nights, where you can have an aperitivo and two-course meal together with a local wine tasting to the sound of a live jazz band – this was one of my favourite nights of last summer.

On the more affordable side of Olbia hotels you can find Luna Lughente, near the main city beaches, and Il Pellicano D’Oro, on one of Olbia’s main beaches. In town, friends that have gone to La Locanda del Conte Mameli hotel and spa told me the hotel is nice and has some good promotions all year round. On the other side of town, Hotel Cala Cuncheddi towers over a gorgeous beach and is sometimes used for weddings and parties.

Events and nightlife

Although Sardinia can be quite remote, a growing number of high-profile events is bringing in even more tourists. Some of these can be found below.

Red Valley

The Red Valley is a three-day, all-night music festival, a fairly recent addition to the Sardinian calendar, bringing national and international artists to a part of Italy that is too often forgotten by gig bookers. This is a mecca for Sardinian teens, who would otherwise have to spend loads to go to a gig in mainland Italy. Headliners have included the Black Eyed Peas, Italian (and local) rap legend Salmo of the I May Destroy You soundtrack fame, as well as a series of deejays.

Autunno in Barbagia

For a more authentic experience, “Autumn in Barbagia” is a craft and food festival and a chance to visit inner Sardinia and its most characteristic villages to watch local folk dancers, watch the making of Sardinian bread and pasta and local artisans at work.

A journey in stages through more than 30 villages in the deep heart of Sardinia running from September until December, every weekend during Autunno in Barbagia is dedicated to the discovery of a village in the province of Nuoro. This region, bordered by the Gennargentu and Supramonte mountains, was once considered a hostile area, a place of exile and of kidnappings by bandits, but today it recounts its past through the beauty of its mountains and culture.

Time in Jazz

Organised by local jazz musician Paolo Fresu, Time in Jazz is an international jazz festival in the artist’s hometown of Berchidda, a must for music lovers.

Costa Smeralda clubbing

You know I hate clubbing, but I did go to clubs back in the day and, although I don’t fancy handing out a kidney for entry, I won’t gate-keep. People who love to go and be seen while clubbing in Costa Smeralda go to the Country Club in Porto Rotondo (Bob Sinclair is a regular headliner), or to the gorgeous Ritual Club, carved in stone, or to see the sunset at Phi Beach, one of my favourite clubbing and aperitivo locations. Just be prepared to spend a lot of money.

Food and drink

Sardinian food is amazing, a bland of meat, dairy, fish and veggies together with a lot of carbs. It can be both on the heavy and light side depending on your choice of dish. Some faves / most famous things to try below.

An important disclaimer however: Sardinian isn’t known for pizza. Our pizza isn’t the best. Don’t ask me why – it could be because it’s not a traditional dish in our region, or because of the water we use (side note: you can’t drink water from the tap in Sardinia. Buy bottled water). So if you’re after ok pizza on the island, I’d say look for places that do Neapolitan style pizza, with a thick crust. They tend to be better, although in Olbia pizza by the slice or square places like Il Ciclope or Zio Gigi are really good.

Starters, cheese and charcuterie

Sardinian cheese and charcuterie boards are to die for, usually a blend of prosciutto, salami, spicy sausage, pecorino cheese, ricotta, honey and locally sourced fruit like figs or pears. Great as a full meal or as aperitivo.

A great main or aperitivo dish, panadas are meat or veggie pies with a thick carby crust.

You’re gonna ask me about it at some point so here we go: Casu Martzu. Derived from pecorino, casu martzu is Sardinia’s infamous rotten cheese, which goes beyond typical fermentation to a stage of decomposition, brought about by the digestive action of the larvae of the cheese fly. These larvae are deliberately introduced to the cheese, promoting an advanced level of fermentation and breaking down of the cheese’s fats. The texture of the cheese becomes very soft, with some liquid (called “làgrima”, Sardinian for “teardrop”) seeping out. The larvae themselves appear as translucent white worms, roughly 8 mm long. When consumed, the larvae can survive in the intestine, causing enteric myiasis. Casu Martzu is ILLEGAL and you can’t just buy it and take it back home with you on the plane. I myself have never tried it but some members of my family who have love it. But… ew.

For a legal, salty and yummy type of cheese that you can take home with you you’re better off with Pecorino. It’s often even sold on beaches – Sardinian sellers asking: “Pecorino ne volete!” (“Pecorino do you want?” In the typical Sardinian reversal of sentence structures) is something I used to get teased for by mainland Italians as a teen and it’s… an experience.

Pane carasau is a crunchy, salty, twice-baked bread looking like a thin disc. It’s also known as carta da musica, or music paper. Pane Carasau can be eaten with meat, cheese, seasoned with oil and salt, and then placed in the oven, after which it’s called Pane Guttiau. If served with broth, tomato sauce, and poached egg it’s known as Pane Fratau. It can also substitute pasta sheets when making lasagna, and it’s the best addition to any charcuterie board. It’s also a very easy souvenir / treat to bring back to your friends.

Mains

Sardinians love their seafood – something I somehow only started eating when I moved out. Now though every time I return I make sure I eat a lot of pasta con le arselle or vongole (a type of clam), pasta con le cozze (mussels) or cannolicchi (razor clams). Mussels au gratin, or any other sort of catch of the day seafood, is an expensive must on the island.

Fregola is a tiny semola pasta shaped into irregular balls that are just a few millimeters in diameter. Fregola is found all around the island and is rather versatile, often served with both meat and fish sauces. Among the most typical preparations is fregola with clams and bottarga, or with s ausage, or even with veggies. Fregola is one of my favourite dishes – my mum makes an incredible one!

Like a hybrid of lasagne and savoury bread and butter pudding, Zuppa Gallurese is a traditional dish from Sardinia’s North-East. Sheep broth and meat are layered amid stale flat bread, adding a unique flavour to a very hearty dish (I tend to eat this in winter).

Culurgiones are a typical type of Sardinian pasta not unlike ravioli, filled with a combination of potato, pecorino cheese, animal fats, garlic, olive oil and mint leaves, creating a striking flavour. Culurgiones are prettier than ravioli though: they’re an oval shaped pasta like gnocchi, with an ear of wheat or barley motif. A topping of sweet tomato sauce takes the dish to an even greater depth of flavour.

Malloreddus are another type of famous Sardinian pasta, made from semolina and saffron and shaped like an oval bowl to catch sauce and grated cheese within dishes. Tomato sauce and meat malloreddus are to die for.

Meat lovers will adore Porceddu, aka roasted suckling piglet – not pictured here because I’ve seen too many tiny dead ones at large family dinners. This traditional dish sees the body of the piglet being cleaned and stuffed with meat, rosemary, herbs, fennel and other herbs.

Dessert and drinks

Seadas are some of my fave rustic desserts: a fried giant ravioli with a filling of fresh melted cheese, topped with drizzled honey and sugar. The best seadas have lemon or orange zest grated into the dough.

Some of my favourite dry treats include Formaggelle (or, depending on where you are, Pardule), a baked cheesecake with raisins and orange zest shaped as a little sun, and papassini, dry almond flavoured biscuits with raisins covered in colourful icing.

Mirto is a liqueur obtained from the myrtle plant through the alcoholic maceration of the berries or a compound of berries and leaves. Myrtle grows freely in Sardinia, where the liqueur was consumed as part of a local niche market, in two varieties: the one with black berries and the other one with the white ones. Legend has it that, long ago, Sardinian bandits introduced this particular usage of the plant to the nearby island of Corsica, where the liqueur has also been considered a traditional drink since then. Mirto is great as a digestif after a meal. I love it, but it’s a bit too medicinal in flavour and smell for some.

Sardinian wine is one of my fave reasons to come back. Some of my favourite wines include the red, super strong Cannonau – great for meaty dishes and tomato sauces, usually more of a winter wine – and the indredibly fresh Vermentino, a white wine often produced near my hometown. The Sagra del Vermentino in Monti, a village fete, is the stuff of legends: you show up, paying very little to enter the fete, and then you’re given a glass you can refill for free til you drop. Booking a b&b to stay instead of driving back is a good shout.

My favourite beer, Ichnusa, is one of my go-to flavours of home, although it can also be found in London now. It has recently been bought by Heineken but still tastes like summer to me.

Cost of living

Sardinia, and particularly Northern Sardinia, is very expensive – we’ve increased prices due to tourism, but now have to stick with those prices all year round. So don’t be surprised if, say, a meal in Rome or Naples ends up being a lot cheaper than a meal in Olbia.

Sardinians are also very weird with sales. Sometimes sales will have begun across Italy, but not in Sardinia. Don’t ask me why. We’re just quirky like that.

Just a heads’ up that Sardinians – just like Italians – don’t love American Express, and sometimes frown upon card purchases in general. I’m not saying you won’t be able to use your card, but make sure you have cash handy in case someone’s card machine happens to “break”.

Shopping

Your shopping experience in Sardinia may vary depending on the depth of your pockets: in Porto Cervo and Porto Rotondo you will find some of the most famous Italian high fashion, from Valentino to Prada. But particularly in Porto Rotondo and even around Olbia and Golfo Aranci, you can find more affordable brands, independent shops and even local jewellery made of coral.

If you’re looking for a house revamp, Sardinian carpets and ceramics are also very popular with tourists, and you’re likely to find some options to buy them in most tourist towns.

Pole dancing

I am a pole dancer and although I have written many a pole dancer’s travel guide (including a very outdated one to Costa Smeralda) I must say that pole dancing options in Sardinia are still sadly very limited. Although @sardegnapoledancefitness do still bring poles to Pittulongu Beach, they’ve moved their studio to a little basement and seem to do hires and small only. Planet Fitness in Olbia also has a few poles, but just for hire.

The good news is that there are some pole camps taking place in Sardinia, like Fantastic Pole Camp, although bear in mind I haven’t tried it! And I heard through the grapevine that more may be coming soon…

Think that’s about it folks! But as I said, consider this a rolling post 🙂

Sardinia – A Local’s Guide

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About Sardinia

Getting to Sardinia

Getting around Sardinia